From Sturgeon to Tin

Caviar farming is a painstaking investment and process that takes years to yield results. Just what does it take to be the best purveyor in the field? The Gastronome team caught up with La Maison Nordique to uncover the passion and craft behind every shimmering pearl.

Journey Through Time

In the world of luxurious dining, caviar ranks up there as the epitome of refinement and indulgence. Sourced from the delicate roe of sturgeon, this culinary gem has captivated palates for centuries with its exquisite flavour profile and sumptuous texture. With origins steeped in antiquity, caviar has long been revered as a gastronomic treasure sought after for its briny pearls harvested from a variety of fish species. Its ascent to prominence reached its zenith in mediaeval Russia, where it adorned the tables of royal courts as a symbol of opulence and excess. The 19th century marked a new era for caviar as improvements in transportation and refrigeration hastened its accessibility to affluent consumers worldwide. Caviar became a staple of fine dining establishments, gracing the menus of esteemed restaurants and the tables of fashionable social gatherings. The advent of sustainable aquaculture practices only fuelled the demand for caviar even more.

A Challenging Craft

Keyan Eslamdoust is the visionary founder and owner of La Maison Nordique, France's foremost caviar producer. A true aficionado of the art of caviar production, he shared with the Gastronome team insights into the intricacies of the production process where every step is carefully calibrated to ensure the highest quality end product. As Keyan says, “Le secret de fabrication du caviar, c’est la qualité de l’élevage et le savoirfaire d’hommes passionnés”. (The secret to caviar craftsmanship lies in the quality of breeding, and the know-how of passionate individuals.)

La Maison Nordique owns and operates an exclusive breeding farm in Sologne, north-central France. Here, amidst 75 hectares of ponds tended by dedicated fish farmers, a harmonious ecosystem has been cultivated, mirroring the natural habitat of the sturgeons. Hailed as one of the world’s fi

nest, farm-raised caviar from Sologne is considered one of the best caviars in the world. Consistency, quality of breeding and freshness are the strengths of this French caviar house. "When it comes to sturgeon farming, there are a few aspects to take into consideration, such as the temperature. Sturgeons require cooler conditions to thrive," shares Keyan. In warmer waters, the capacity of water to hold dissolved oxygen decreases, leading to lower oxygen levels. While sturgeon have adapted to thrive in low-oxygen environments to some extent, the large bodies of sturgeon demand ample oxygen to support their vital functions.

To produce high-quality caviar, another crucial factor comes into play. " The space where we raise the caviar is very important," he emphasises. "Each fish is afforded its own domain, allowing ample room to thrive and breathe." By ensuring that each fish has sufficient room, the environment mimics natural conditions more closely, contributing to the overall health and quality of the sturgeon and, consequently, the caviar produced from them. Apart from space that defines the journey to caviar excellence, time is an important factor in caviar farming. "We adhere to strict guidelines regarding the harvesting of our sturgeon," Keyan explains. "For our Siberian sturgeon, we never harvest them before they reach nine years old, while our Russian sturgeon must be 13 or 14 years old before caviar extraction begins."

This dedication to maturity ensures that each sturgeon reaches its full potential, resulting in caviar of unparalleled quality. "While we could harvest them earlier to produce more caviar," he reveals, "we never compromise on our commitment to excellence, knowing that premature extraction could affect the quality of the caviar." Under the watchful eyes of the fish farmers, a thriving community of 50,000 sturgeon specimens flourishes, each one meticulously cared for to ensure optimal growth and development.

By maintaining conditions closely aligned with their natural habitat, La Maison Nordique fosters an environment conducive to the well-being and vitality of the sturgeon, a fundamental prerequisite for the production of exceptional caviar. With a production output of about four tons a year – a modest figure compared to some mass breeding operations – the commitment to quality remains unwavering. La Maison Nordique caviar graces the menus of Michelin-starred restaurants and has found favour with esteemed chefs like Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Emmanuel Stroobant, whose culinary masterpieces are enhanced by the exquisite taste and texture of its caviar.

From Harvest to Table

Caviar is meticulously graded to ensure the utmost quality at La Maison Nordique, where caviar is graded according to the Malossol system. e caviar is classified into first and second grades, with approximately 80-90% of the production meeting the stringent standards of the first grade, while the remaining 10-15% is designated as second grade, often utilised in culinary applications such as pasta or sauces. Despite the dedication to quality, the nature of caviar farming means that some pearls may exhibit variations in size, colour, or texture – characteristics that render them unsuitable for the highest grade. Apart from caviar production, La Maison Nordique also specialises in smoking and curing farmed fish showcasing a similar commitment to craftsmanship and culinary finesse with its own workshops and smokehouses. Here, skilled artisans meticulously cure and smoke a variety of prized fish species using traditional methods, whether it be tuna, sword fish, marlin or sturgeon. Dry salt curing and controlled smoking with fragrant beechwood impart a depth of flavour to each fish. After the smoking process and 48 hours of maturation, the fish are expertly cut by hand or machine, ensuring precision in every slice.

Through continuous refinement and dedication, La Maison Nordique has seen significant improvements to their products over time. Every aspect of the farming process, from feeding to harvesting, is approached with a blend of manual labour, skilled craftsmanship and many years of experience. These time-honoured traditions are a good reminder that some things are worth preserving.

View the story in issue 08 of our quarterly food and beverage e-magazine here.

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Saint Pierre, led by Chef-Owner Emmanuel Stroobant, is a Two Michelin-starred French fine dining restaurant in Singapore. It offers exquisite tasting menus, including a 7-course vegetarian degustation. Saint Pierre also serves caviar — sourced from some of the world’s finest producers and presented with elegance across selected courses. Our caviar offerings add depth, sophistication, and a touch of opulence to your fine dining journey.

Saint Pierre is proud to have Singapore’s first Master of Wine, Tan Ying Hsien, as our wine consultant. As a Two Michelin-Starred French restaurant in Singapore, we offer an exceptional wine and dine experience. Our carefully curated wine list crafted under Tan Ying Hsien’s expert guidance, features a diverse selection of the finest wines from around the world, perfectly paired to complement our contemporary French cuisine.

Located at One Fullerton, Saint Pierre boasts breathtaking views of the Marina Bay Sands (MBS) skyline, creating an elegant setting for any occasion — from refined lunches to intimate celebrations and unparalleled fine dining experiences.

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